![]() I chose to add one layer of blue dye and then another one of green one. I decided to add only one since the traces of black paint was impressive. Don't use a glossy varnish if you want to get an effect of aged copper.Īpply the black primer. It will be our base color.īlue acrylic dye. Don't use a white one, the friction of the pieces will end revealing the base paint and a white one will break the effect.Ĭopper acrylic paint. First of all, you will need:īlack primer paint. In this post, I will try to get an effect of aged copper, something like copper recovered from a sunk boat several years ago. I don't recommend you to paint it assembled, the effect will not be the same. Once the cryptex is assembled is time to disassemble it and paint all the pieces. Now, you should be able to assemble all the parts in a functional cryptex. Introduce the steppers in the outer core holes, probably you will broke some of them doing it, so, printing more than 30 is recommendable. Also, I cut the corners of the teeth rail in order to make easier closing the cryptex.I remove it since it get broke after a couple of times testing the screw. In the design, the retainer has an embellisher which keep the outer core when it is screwed.My printer didn't print the rail where the inner core is joins the inner core decorator, so, I needed to carve it.This happens when the retainer and the gears are assembled, all the parts squeeze the external core, which reducts a bit its size (remember the rail where the teeth of the internal core are keep) locking the internal core. ![]() ![]() Other solution is to print the inner core escalated to 99%. Otherwise, the internal core will get locket inside of the external core. It's important to put an special effort sanding the screws, the external core rail and the internal core tube. ![]() There are another technics using some chemical products but I prefer this solution since i get a bit more control about what I'm doing. The first step to get a good quality printing is sanding the surfaces of all the pieces. It took me 49 hours of printing all the parts but the assemblig were around 30 hours of sandding, cutting, painting and varnishing all the parts. I'm not counting the time spent in failures due to bad calibration of the bed. Maybe, the inner core can be escalated to 99% of the original size, this will allow a better sliding when the inner core is opened. The designs are pretty accurate, they fit well without escalate any of them. I printed them with my Ender-3 Pro 3D printer.
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